Report by Julia Robson

Fittingly, the first truly international-feel show of London Fashion Week was pulled off by its greatest export and most accomplished crowd-pleaser. Who else could have newly arrived big shots, like Anna Wintour, Natalie Massenet, Jefferson Hack and Kate Lanphear, perched on the edge of their gilt chairs in a converted dairy, waiting for the show to start like a pack of Pavlov’s hounds? No pressure. Happily, this is one blonde mother who knows exactly how to mix the right amount of oomph with the right amount of aaaahhh.
It takes a tomboy to understand that somewhere deep within every grown-up woman lurks a little girl, who misses dressing her dollies. Luella tapped into the Zeitgeist for childlike innocence and came up with something cheerful, polished and pretty, in that edgy London way she has made her own. Her collection felt like the sort of wardrobe young teenagers (like Tavi?) dream of. It also made hardened hacks, along with fervent Luella Utd supporters, including rock chicks Peaches Geldof, Alexa Chung and Fran Cutler, stare in wonderment as their future paraded before them on models wearing Minnie Mouse bows in their hair. Key pieces, including a structured dress with a sticky-out skirt (created with detachable hip pads, to be sold separately), worn with pretty shoes (by Michael Lewis) and frilly bags with swinging pompoms (Katie Hillier) were equally charming, directional and preposterously commercial.
“We used formed seams and tulle hip pads to get across the feeling of prettiness emanating from hips and shoulders,” explained the laid-back designer backstage.
“I loved it, especially the spotty trousers,” said Alexa Chung, who took photos throughout the show, “to remind me when I’m shopping”.
“I want the black dress with the cut-out heart,” gushed Mary McCartney backstage. “It’s so good to see real-life clothes that are fun, not boring. It made me want to rush out and shop!” Kerching! Surely Anna Wintour would approve?

Photography by Marcus Dawes

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