Report by Anna-Marie Solowij

Photography by Anna Bauer

Book make-up artists Val Garland, Pat McGrath or Alex Box for your show and you’re guaranteed an eyeful. Of make-up, that is, because so far this week the eyes have been getting all the attention.

Val’s creation for Mary Katrantzou was based around the show’s theme of colourful Murano glass. Complementing all the kaleidoscopic prints of Katrantzou’s dresses, Val mixed a rainbow of striking shades onto a base of violet to recontour the eye, underlining the colourful statement with a graphic black tick below the lower lid. “It’s painterly,” says Val of a trend that has also surfaced in the clothes this week.

Over at Kinder Aggugini, Pat McGrath played around with the theme of Dark Fairytale, using pink blusher all across the eyes with powdery smudges of colour dripping down under the eye and onto the cheeks. A layer of purple glitter on a base of burgundy added depth and sparkle to the look. Brown false lashes (“Brown looks more childlike and softer than black,” explains Pat) with quarter lashes on the lower lid confirmed the sexy/innocent theme. Shimmer, applied to the top of the cheekbones, threw light upwards, making a feature of those lower lashes.

Stylist Johnny Blue Eyes’ House of Blue Eyes presentation saw Alex Box painting on a metallic gold visor across the eyes, onto which she layered black eyeliner, huge, fluttering top and bottom lashes and what has become known in the business as the ‘Alex Box brow’ – ie, bold and black. ‘It’s aliens from Outer Space meets Cleopatra,” quipped Alex.

At Louise Gray, fingertip-applied dots below the eyes and 1970s purple-streaked glitter at Olanic continued the theme that was kicked off by the Headonism show at the beginning of the week, when M.A.C make-up artist Caroline Donnelly based the graphic black eyeliner shape on an Art Deco earring design.

Finally, at PPQ, keyed by Shu Uemura Creative Director Uchiide San, a special set of false lashes was created to use on each girl. Great news is that the lashes go on sale, so we all get to have some of that PPQ make-up magic.

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