Report by Alison Bishop

The influential buyers unveil the trends they spotted, the pieces they loved, and what we’ll soon be wearing

Susanne Tide-Frater, Fashion Director,
Fashionair
As a retailer, I look for clothes that sell. But I also want to see some design flair that translates well for the customer, not just the editor!
I loved Jena.Theo, the winners at Fashion Fringe, for their bold, draped jersey pieces that also have edge – it’s a good combination.

Bridget Cosgrave, Fashion & Buying Director,
Matches
I’ve liked all the strong tailoring and sculptured looks this season – the older models at Sykes (she designs our Freda range) were classy and polished, and made for statement dressing. Design duo LP.BG also did a good job with their pastel, contoured dresses. Mark Fast and Mary Katrantzou were looking good as designers on the fast track to success. Mark was exclusive with another retailer for his first season, but now we’re knocking on his door!

Armand Hadida, Owner,
L’Eclaireur
In Paris, we like the more feminine looks, so Marios Schwab was a real highlight – the pleats and layered looks enhancing the body will work for our customers looking for something fresh. Antonio Berardi’s sexy dresses with a focus on the bust will also be good for French women, who like to show off their looks!

Brix Smith-Start, Owner,
Start
The little crop trench jacket is one of my favourite pieces this season.
I loved Charles Anastase’s feminine ruching. I also adored Richard Nicoll’s escapist vacation mood – the easy, breezy sporty dresses looked great.
Yasmin Sewell, creative consultant, Liberty
The colour palette for spring is refreshing, frosted, softer and more ladylike. My three favourite boys nailed it, too: Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab and Richard Nicoll all adapted to the new trend for light, spring colours – and that’s the most important trend to come out of London by far. Oh, and I loved the new longer lengths (an antidote
to shorts!).

Rebecca Osobado, Buyer,
Selfridges
“Pleating, layering of different fabrics and a Native American vibe are key trends we’re looking out for next season. And shorts! Sportswear is also coming through – Topshop Unique looked good and we loved Marios Schwab’s triple layering.

Erin Mullaney, Buying Director,
Browns
Christopher Kane is the most important designer in London right now, for sure. It’s always a pleasure to see what he does next because he always moves his ideas on. The pastel colour palette and the play on contours with gingham checks and soft beading was amazing. Meadham Kirchhoff was another favourite, they moved me to tears again. I loved it because they are so refreshing and innovative.

Robin Schulie, Buyer,
Maria Luisa
Meadham Kirchhoff was an  emotional show for me. It’s great to see them really pushing the boundaries of what the modern girl should be wearing. It was a statement against all the sculptured dresses and platform heels everywhere. Their take on modern femininity is refreshing – and they worked up such an original idea this season that I’m sure other designers will follow them. I also loved Marios Schwab for pushing his signature look into a new arena: the longer lengths, pleating and layering will be new key looks.

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