by Mrs Rubbish

Photography: Emma Hardy

My earliest memory of food is from when my parents got divorced: my dad threw a cabbage out of the kitchen window in frustration at me and my sister’s behaviour. It’s become a running family joke ever since to watch out for flying cabbage.

I learned most of my culinary skills from my stepmum. I grew up with her and my dad in Perth, Australia. She was a keen cook and made quite adventurous dishes. She’d make her own sushi and all sorts of fancy stuff.  I remember for one of my birthdays she made kangaroo steak with tomato relish and couscous. The downside to this was that my sister and I always had to do the washing-up and it felt like every utensil in the kitchen had been used. I think that’s why today I love one-pot meals. Out of dish rebellion I make simple, easy, no-fuss food.

When I cook, I add lots of lemon juice to everything, even if it’s Italian.  I also add Tabasco to everything. We just bought a big bottle of it for the studio, as without my hot sauce I can’t design.

I’m not really one of these people who grazes. I don’t think about food that much. When I’m getting into a manic state and when my thoughts become a bit fractured it’s a sign that I need to eat something. That normally means a snack of crunchy peanut butter on toast until I’ve managed to get downstairs to prepare something more substantial.

I’m really into healthy eating. When I grew up it was all about fresh, organic ingredients, so it’s just permeated my cooking repertoire. I’m also really into my mum’s vegetable soup with toasted Vogel’s bread. Your palette forms  a familiarity with the food you are raised on. Perhaps that’s why I’m not big on sweets and puddings.  I love a bowl of chips at The Royal Oak on Columbia Road. And I love fish pie – it’s one of my favourite stodgier meals.

This will sound neurotic, but I truly do prefer salad to pudding. The only exception is Tip Top’s Hokey Pokey ice cream. It’s the best flavour in the world and you can only get it in New Zealand. It’s almost worth flying there to have it. One of my favourite dishes is chicory salad at the Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch. I often go there just for that dish. I do drink coffee, just one or two max a day. Peppermint tea is a big favourite and I’ll have the occasional mug  of sugary builder’s tea. I have plenty of other vices. I smoke when I drink, which is quite often, but I do do Bikram yoga and try to go to the gym when I can.

The intention of a healthy lifestyle has been passed along by my parents. Dad’s a retired ophthalmologist and, at the age of 62, has just won the world rowing championships in Croatia in his age group. He’s flying over with medal in tow to see my collection, so I’m excited that he’ll be at London Fashion Week for the first time.  My mum stills runs marathons, too. The dish I’ve chosen to make is something I throw together almost every day. The basis of it is very simple. It’s healthy and filling and really virtuous if you’re feeling a bit rough. It’s immediate and comforting in its integrity – which kind of mirrors what I’m planning in my spring/summer 2010 collection. I wanted to make an urban wardrobe with a spirit of escapism. There’s a Tahitian influence: I’ve done luxurious versions of grass skirts and sarong drape dresses in simple, earthy colours. It’s very optimistic.


Richard Nicoll’s show is today at 7pm at TS, NW1.


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