Report by Anna-Marie Solowij
He wears the best suits and frequently occupies the choicest seats at LFW, adjacent to Sarah Mower, Natalie Massenet, Hilary Riva – some of the most powerful people in the industry. Meet Hugh Devlin, fashion’s family lawyer. He’s the man who makes the introductions to broker the deal that secures the finance that puts the show on the catwalk. Devlin’s role as fashion’s power broker has evolved since the mid-1990s, when he acted for Helen Storey. He met a group of her contemporaries and has, over the years, acted for Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Hussein Chalayan and Matthew Williamson, Ali Hewson and Bono [he brokered the deal between Edun and LVMH]. More recent clients include Christopher Kane, Kinder Aggugini, Henry Holland and Louise Goldin.
A self-declared matchmaker, Devlin observes the potential connections between people that might lead to a creative spark. With a background in investment banking and as a partner in the law firm Withers LLP, he is perfectly placed to execute introductions and then, more importantly, commercialise those alliances.
“Creative people typically don’t have the vocabulary to express the value of what they do in a business way, which is where I can help,” he says. There are exceptions, however. “Jonathan Saunders gets it – he even does his own cash flow. And Luella’s journalistic background means she understands the importance of the ‘story’.”
For others, Devlin can help point them in the right direction to get their infrastructure in place, whether that be finance, an accountant or a manufacturer. “Yes, designers get offers of investment and that’s great, but if they don’t know where to get a collection made that’s a problem.” Unlike New York, Milan and Paris, there is little manufacturing here. “And we don’t have access to people with experience, either,” he laments. “One of my clients has been looking for a chef de produit for over a year. These people are hard to find.”
So, how does Devlin get around the fact that (by his own admission) creative people are scared of lawyers? “I can talk hemlines with the best of them,” he replies. He has clearly done his research and it is this absolute attention to the interests and business of his clientele that means Devlin can talk their language and be their translator in business.
Also, the fashion industry is a fairly small place – word gets out and people get to know one another relatively quickly. “If you’re nice and respectful and
on the same wavelength, it’s easy to do business,” he explains. But Devlin can be tough, too. “Some people groan when they see me coming,” he laughs. “You see, I know all about their previous deals because I did them!”

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